Batso Statue at Mill Creek

Batso Statue at Mill Creek

Lower Cathedral Spire

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Lower Cathedral Spire

Richard Leonard, Jules Eichorn and Bestor Robinson on the summit of Lower Cathedral Spire during the first ascent on Labor Day weekend, 1934.

While the men are climbing Lower Cathedral Spire, three men, Herbert B. Blanks, Elliot Sawyer, and Boyton S. Kaiser complete the second ascent of Higher Cathedral Spire
using the pitons left in place by the first asent team four months
previously. The Higher Spire team take pictures of Leonard, Eichorn,
and Robinson on the top of Lower Cathedral Spire before descending.

El Capitan, from page 184 of the 1959 American Alpine Journal

El Capitan
WARREN J. HARDING

l SUPPOSE this article could be titled “The Conquest of El Capitan.” However, as I hammered in the last bolt and staggered over the rim, it was not at all clear to me who was conqueror and who was conquered: I do recall that El Cap seemed to be in much better condition than I was.

The above mentioned last bolt marked the conclusion of a venture that began in July, 1957. Mark Powell, Bill “Dolt” Feuerer and I met in Yosemite Valley intending to make an attempt on the North Face of Half Dome. We discovered that an excellent team of climbers from southern California was already at work on it and had the situation well in hand. In our disappointment, we became a bit rash and decided to “have a go” at El Cap.

I’m sure no climber ever considered El Cap impossible-the term “impossible climb” having long since become obsolete. The fact that, previously, there had been no serious attempts to scale the sheer 2900-foot face was simply due to the common belief among rock climbers that techniques were not sufficiently advanced to cope with such a problem.

From Chris Jones Climbing In North America

from Chris Jones Climbing In North America

Yosemite Valley. It is the Fourth of July weekend in 1957. The heat is oppressive, and the campgrounds are overflowing. The roads are crowded with cars that make their way from viewpoint to store and back to viewpoint. Tourists idly drink Coke and tap time to the radio as they cruise up and down. They are in Yosemite for a good time. The scenery may be a bonus, but many of them would just as soon be at Las Vegas. They look upon Yosemite as an outdoor amusement park. There is a sense of bored pleasure seeking in the air.

This sense of ennui contrasts with the urgency of three grimy young men. They, too, seem oblivious to the scenery, but they are not bored. Harding, Feuerer, and Powell have just been aced out of Half Dome and are earnestly discussing their next move. A climbing revolution is about to take place in Yosemite, a revolution that in less than ten years will put American climbers at the forefront of the sport and influence mountaineering all over the world.

After grumbling around the valley in a "fit of egotistical pique," Harding decided to cap the Half Dome climb by a harder one. He looked across at the 3,000-foot south buttress of El Capitan and emphatically stated, "I'm gonna climb that god-damn line."

Climbing the Granite Frontier, From Muir to the Masses

In 1869 John Muir scrambled up a soaring granite tower named Cathedral Peak, becoming the first person to stand atop the table-sized summit, which offers a magnificent view of California's High Sierra.

[Yosemite] Corbis

The Nose on El Capitan has become a magnet for speed-climbers.

"No feature, however, of all the noble landscape as seen from here seems more wonderful than the Cathedral itself, a temple displaying Nature's best masonry and sermons in stones," Muir wrote. "This I may say is the first time I have been at church in California. . . . In our best times everything turns into religion, all the world seems a church and the mountains altars."

Muir was Yosemite's first climbing bum -- a rara avis then, but a species that is not at all endangered today. Witness the queue to get a tent site in the park's Camp Four, where bedraggled climbers with duct tape holding their down jackets together mass early every morning hours before the ranger station opens. And those are the orderly ones, not the so-called dirtbags who sleep illegally in the bushes, ignoring the regulations and spending months at a time in the park pursuing their passion. It's not uncommon, moreover, to find climbers lined up to scale popular routes such as Cathedral Peak, although most use a rope to protect themselves from falling off the summit -- unlike Muir, who trusted all to his hands and feet and steady nerves.

The ascent of Cathedral Peak was notable not just for its physical accomplishment but even more so for the mental aspect, which in Muir's case was inescapably spiritual. The son of a harsh, itinerant preacher who viewed all fun as frivolity, Muir transmuted his father's stern philosophy into an unreservedly generous worldview that marveled at the wonder of nature and saw God's love manifested in every petal of a flower or broken chunk of gleaming granite. To Muir climbing was not merely exercise but essentially an act of transcendence. Climbing, like love to Paul Valery, was "where self and not-self meet."

It's also a lot of fun. That's something I was reminded of again and again walking through a new exhibit that recently opened at the Yosemite Museum. Called "Granite Frontiers: A Century of Yosemite Climbing," the show traces the evolution of the sport from Muir's ascent of Cathedral Peak to the speed-climbing frenzy that has seen the record for running up the Nose on El Capitan repeatedly bested in the past year (it currently stands at 2 hours, 37 minutes and 5 seconds, although most people take three days or longer to do the route).

[Yosemite National Park] Jonathan Bayless/National Park Service

Visitors explore the climbing exhibit at the Yosemite Museum.

The exhibit was organized by Ken Yager, who in his dirtbag youth spent two years living in a cave in the park and now runs the nonprofit Yosemite Climbing Association. The show, which is on display through Nov. 9, uses photos, artifacts and the words of participants to try to explain the exploits of climbers to those who usually see them only as dots on the sheer walls surrounding Yosemite Valley.

Although the start of mountaineering as a leisure activity is usually dated from the first ascent of Mount Blanc in 1786, no single place has been more crucial to the development of technical climbing as we know it today than Yosemite, the proving ground for much of the equipment and techniques that currently define the sport.

Muir, unlike many weekend warriors who rack up with thousands of dollars of space-age equipment, was a minimalist. A blanket, a crust of bread and a drinking cup constituted his usual kit. Muir's tin cup is on display, adorned with his signature, much like modern climbers who mark their gear (I use nail polish).

A lot of metal is on exhibit, including about 100 pounds of pitons, the minute engineering advances of which perhaps not every visitor will find fascinating. One neat feature is a section of granite spilt with cracks where visitors can practice placing nuts and caming devices -- the removable gear to which climbers clip their ropes for protection. Although judging by some of the poor placements I saw, I hope the people in front of me weren't heading up a real wall anytime soon.

But the real advances in climbing have been conceptual, mental breakthroughs of what is thought possible, rather than pure engineering triumphs.

In 1870, for example, Josiah Whitney looked at the towering blank mass of Half Dome and quailed. "Perfectly inaccessible, being probably the only one of all the prominent points about the Yosemite which never has and never will be trodden by human feet," he wrote.

"Five years later," the show dryly notes, "Half Dome was climbed."

That was George Anderson's ascent, when he drilled eyebolts up the smooth side of the monolith, standing on each successive rod to place the next and then fixing lines to the summit so that others could follow.

Anderson's use of equipment to ascend a rock face makes him the first "aid climber." "Free climbers," by contrast, use equipment only to catch a fall but do the actual climbing with their hands and feet -- and sometimes elbows and knees. These contrasting approaches were re-enacted by the two climbers who most pushed the modern boundaries of the sport in the Valley in the 1960s: Warren Harding, who made the first visionary aid climb of El Cap, and Royal Robbins, Harding's free-climbing rival, whose gecko-like prowess on the rock continues to inspire.

Both styles require skill and courage. But once again it's Muir who encapsulated the transforming essence of the experience, especially during his first ascent of Mount Ritter in 1872. Half-way up the crumbling mountain, Muir became gripped with fear.

"I was brought to a dead stop, with arms outspread, clinging close to the face of the rock, unable to move hand or foot either up or down," he wrote. "My doom appeared fixed. I must fall. . . . But the terrible eclipse lasted only a moment, when life burst forth again with preternatural clearness. I seemed suddenly to become possessed of a new sense. The other self -- the ghost of by-gone experiences, instinct, or Guardian Angel -- call it what you will -- came forward and assumed control. Then my trembling muscles became firm again, every rift and flaw was seen as through a microscope, and my limbs moved with a positiveness and precision with which I seemed to have nothing at all to do. Had I been borne aloft upon wings, my deliverance could not have been more complete."

It's those moments -- when you do something you think you can't possibly do -- that make climbing what it is.

Mr. Ybarra is the Journal's extreme sports correspondent.

House honors first climbers to scale El Capitan

 
House honors first climbers to scale El Capitan
By Michael Doyle | McClatchy Newspapers
 
WASHINGTON -- Lawmakers who blanched at a $700 billion financial rescue package have found time to honor the brave men who climbed Yosemite National Park's El Capitan peak a half-century ago.
Kicking off a round of commemorations, the House this week approved a resolution saluting three climbers who were the first to scale North America's tallest free-standing granite monolith. The resolution sets the stage for a 50th anniversary ceremony to be held in Yosemite next month.
"It's a landmark," Rep. George Radanovich, R-Mariposa, said Wednesday of the climb. "It was a really big deal."

The House resolution honors Wayne Merry, Fresno resident George Whitmore and Warren J. Harding, who took 47 days in 1957 and 1958 to climb El Capitan's so-called "Nose Route." Theirs was a full-blown siege, complete with sizable support crew, fixed ropes and established camps along the vertical way.
Today, climbers can race up the same route in two or three days. Some daredevils have done it in one; in July, two climbers did the Nose Route in two hours and 43 minutes.
The House resolution, too, moved speedily through what can be an obstacle-ridden path. Radanovich's office prepared the resolution at the behest of the National Park Service. The park service is now getting ready for its own commemoration of the event, scheduled for Nov. 8.

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